This is for those of you who still cling to the idea that sailing in the Med is all about too much wind or too little wind. Here's Makarma strutting her stuff in the gulf of Antalya on a perfect early summer's afternoon. It doesn't happen often, but when it does, it's magic! We owe a big thank you to Mike and Corinne on Cleophea who were on hand to record the moment for us .
'Holy Moly' - it’s Cleophea!
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| The reason behind our sleepless night in Yesilovacik |
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| Cathy & Corinne celebrate our reunion in Aydincik |
When we said goodbye to them in Tasucu, we didn’t expect to see them again so soon. Our tiredness forgotten, we leaned over the rail to exchange hugs of welcome. Over lunch later, we needed no persuasion to drop our plan to head directly back to Finike and instead to coast-hop with them as far as their home port of Kemer. We like Mike and Corinne a lot - we last sailed with them through the Corinth canal. And Cleophea is a pretty steel ketch that goes much the same speed as Makarma, making her an ideal buddy boat.
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| Cleophea under sail during a photoshoot of both boats |
So together we retraced our steps to Bozyazi and Gazipasa, arriving in Alanya old harbour on Saturday afternoon. Alanya is package tourist hotspot and all afternoon we were entertained watching a fleet of gulets decked out in various themes - Captain Hook; Pirates of the Caribbean; Viking warrior - all playing the music from Titanic, come and go. Not much sleep that night trying to tune out the mindless music blaring from the Robin Hood and James Dean discos.
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| Pirate gulet steaming out of Alanya harbour |
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| Delicious dinner at the Panorama cafe overlooking the harbour |
The antidote came the next day with a trip up the Manavgat river. A bar at the entrance reduced the depth to 0.5 under the keel and the outgoing current was surprisingly strong. You wouldn’t want to come in here with a strong onshore breeze. As we motored 3 miles up to the bridge that prevents yachts from going further, the only sound we could hear was birdsong.
It reminded us of the upper reaches of the Guadiana river - keeping to the outside of the bends where the river is deeper, chugging between banks lined with cane-breaks. Except here a gulet would steam past from time to time loaded with trippers.
We rafted up alongside a rusting white ferry beside a small boatyard for the night. It was a tranquil evening and even the strains of pop music floating across from a hotel on the far bank did little to disturb the peace.
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| Rafted up in the river for the night |
After a glorious broad reach in a steady 15 knots of wind across the gulf of Antalya we anchored in Moonlight Bay outside Kemer for a farewell dinner with Mike and Corinne. As we watched the full moon rise out of a perfectly positioned notch in the hillside, we reflected on a delightful week’s cruising in company.
The EMYR storms into Tasucu - 25th May
Three consecutive days of strong southerly winds have kept us in Tasucu harbour. We’re berthed stern-to, held off the quay by our sturdy bugel anchor, and sheltered from the worst of it between two huge tripper gulets. A backup line tied to one of the gulets has given us some extra security but it isn’t exactly quiet or comfortable. We’ve even fitted the winter springs to stop our lines snatching at the boat.
The wind hasn’t held up the yachts taking part in the East Med Yacht Rally though. They have literally flown down from Alanya with just one stopover at Bozyazi. The day before they’re due, Tasucu council puts out the bunting and finally gets around to connecting up the cold water showers on the quay. We wonder how on earth they are going to berth everyone with 30 knots blowing on to the quay. Besides the local gulets are not showing any inclination to clear their berths to make room for them.
When we turn on the VHF on Friday afternoon, we’re surprised to hear that the first yachts are closing the harbour entrance fast. Although they have a following wind, the tension in their voices tells us it's pretty lively out there in the bay. Sensibly someone takes the decision for them all to anchor in the commercial harbour for the night and come over to the yacht harbour in the morning when it’s calm.
At 05.30 we’re woken to the sound of gulet diesel engines revving. No sooner have they left than 35 rally boats in quick succession squeeze stern-to on to the quay.
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| The berthing crew arrive |
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| Watching the berthing team in action |
The place is instantly transformed from a quiet little Turkish backwater into a frenetic circus with fluttering flags, keen deck washing, loud English voices. It’s a bit overwhelming.
We were delighted to discover that Mike and Corinne on Cleophea, and Mike and Annie on Kandeed are among the rally goers.
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| Tight squeeze for Cleophea on to the quay |
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| All in and dressed overall |
A whirlwind of activity - replenishing stores and washing ensues.
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| An enterprising ekmek man brings his bread to the quay |
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| Is this a washing machine or a drier - er... where's the door? |
And then…….at 05.00, they’re all off again - without a single crossed anchor - this time to Girne in Cyprus. Phew!!
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