27th May - Almerimar

Soundtrack: The wind whistling in the rigging as a fresh northeasterly funnels through the marina. We won’t be tackling Cabo de Gata until a change in the wind direction which is forecast for Sunday 31st.

High Point: Our visit to Granada to see the Alhambra palace – our two-day stay in the city is a good break from the boat and a fascinating history lesson. Seeing a splendid bronze astrolabe in the Archeological Museum, we’re struck by the idea that if it wasn’t for Moorish scientific knowledge (much of it lost during the Catholic reconquista), perhaps Columbus would not have found his way across the Atlantic. The train to Granada took us north around the mountains of the Sierra Nevada, passing dozens of wind turbines and PV installations in the uplands. On our return we took the bus down a series of dizzying viaducts to Motril and then along the coast to El Ejido. We are shocked to see the scale of plasticultura and the inevitable environmental degradation it brings about - 64,000 acres in this region are covered in polythene canopies to grow fruit and vegetables all year round. Yet another reason (if one is needed) to stick to buying local produce in season.

Low Point: Trying to get online using the marina’s frustratingly intermittent wifi connection. Standing on the coachroof with the PC balanced on the boom is not the best way to send email and Skype was unworkable.

Slowly but surely, the boat is getting shipshape. The peeling varnish has gone and after hours of sanding, the brightwork now boasts several coats of Teak Wonder – so-called because we wonder what’s in it? We’ve gone for the low maintenance option as it’s such a chore to keep the varnish looking respectable in the strong sunlight. Everything on deck and down below has had a thorough spring clean. A broken hinge fixed here, a duff electrical connection replaced there - and we’re starting to feel like things won’t come away in our hands any more.

The longer we stay in one place, we more we can relate to the story of Odysseus and the sirens. Many boats here have caught the bug and are clearly not going to move on again. The signs are obvious – a TV satellite dish, a pet cat sitting on deck, sometimes even a car parked close by. Their owners have succumbed to the twin sirens of home comforts and familiar surroundings. We are not immune either, and quickly get used to the convenience of the local shops, the lavanderia and shore power on tap. We must get on up the coast before we join them....

No comments: