Chain Reaction

Aghios Nikolaos 29th April

There's an old saying in the Royal Navy, 'if it moves salute it; if it doesn't paint it.'  It's a constant battle onboard to stop things from corroding. Painting is one way. Prevention with a regular spray of WD40 is another. But what do you do when your anchor chain gets rusty and starts messing up your deck like this?


The answer has been a bit of a running saga this winter.  Leighton spent some time browsing metalshop chat rooms on the Internet, populated as far as I could see by good ole boys and characters that looked like Z.Z. Top. He found out how to get rid of rust by soaking the offending bits in molasses. 'Oh yeah?' I hear you say. 'How's that ever going to work?' It was the same reaction from cruisers here too. Leighton insisted the molasses chelates the rust out of the chain and leaves it clean, so he wanted to try it out. 

As it happened we'd also got hold of some free samples of a non-toxic liquid called Metal Rescue that apparently does the same trick, but quicker.  So we decided to do a bit of an experiment and compare the two.

To a great deal of scepticism on the pontoon, we filled an olive pickling barrel with 10:1 water and molasses and put all the chain we could fit into it - about 45 metres. Chelating isn't an overnight process, so we sat back and left it to brew for one month. The smell of fermenting sugar which filtered out through the lid led us to believe that maybe something was happening inside.

We treated the rest of the chain in a bucket of Metal Rescue. This only takes 24 hours to work, so we left it to soak in the brew a short length at a time.


And the result?  To no-one's great surprise the opening of the olive barrel was a bit of an anticlimax. We still have a rusty anchor chain.  Not as bad as before, but it still has quite a bit of rust on it in places. The Metal Rescue did a better job. It cleaned up small items really well, but the 5 litres we had couldn't cope with the amount of chain we had.  It would probably work if you used enough of it, but it isn't cheap and the cost would go quite a long way to paying for a new chain.

We've not given up on it yet - other cruisers have told us their tricks for dealing with the problem that we can try, like dragging the chain along behind us over a sandy sea bed; turning it end to end; re-galvanising it. And if all else fails we can buy a new one! 

A Shot across the Bows - Aghios Nikolaos 23rd April


If you're looking for a gentle cruising ground, you don't come to Crete. It is pretty windy here much of the time and there are not many secure harbours and anchorages along the north coast, and almost none on the south coast. But the marina here in Aghios is a good place to overwinter - the price is reasonable; showers and laundry facilities are excellent; the town is on the doorstep; and there's a good liveaboard community. But book ahead - don't turn up on spec and expect to get a winter berth.
View from the marina of snow on the mountains
This winter we've had two big storms bringing gales and icy rain, and snow fell on the tops of the mountains. In the marina here at Aghios some boats broke mooring lines, others sustained minor damage, and the sea-scout hut got blown down.
The damaged scout hut
Hail lying on our decks




























When we drove up to Kritsa to see the snow for ourselves, we copied Greek drivers and made a snowman against the windscreen of our car - it seemed to be common practice but made seeing out tricky! 
Sheep looking for shelter from the snow in December














We've stayed safe in our berth, but the pontoons are laid out so that the prevailing winds (NW or S) blow beam on either one side of the boat or the other. It makes for exciting berthing. When we get strong southerlies the wind howls in everyone's rigging making sleep elusive. In northwesterlies a tiresome surge gets up in the marina, making the pontoons and boats lurch uncomfortably backwards and forwards. Apart from being annoying, it makes getting on and off the boat a bit of a balancing act - and try woodworking when what you're cutting is moving about!

Sailors say that Crete is easy to get to but very hard to leave. You might think it has something to do with the island's undoubted attractions, but what they actually mean is the prevailing NNW wind, the dreaded meltemi, makes it an easy downwind sail to get here but a bash upwind to sail off again - especially when it blows strongly in the summer. So yachts tend to leave here by May or they run the risk of getting stuck. At the other end of the scale there are some sailors who decide to stay here for good because they fall in love with the place. They buy a house or an olive grove and put their boat up for sale. After enjoying a day's hospitality from Roger and Birgitta sitting beside their infinity pool, we can understand why they've settled here, but it isn't for us, however tempting. 
The view from Roger & Birgitta's house
We planned to leave Aghios before Easter. But we've just had the sort of wake-up call that everyone with elderly parents will understand. We learned Cathy's mother has suffered a minor stroke. She is now back from hospital and is undergoing physiotherapy at home.  She is making good progress towards recovery. We think it's better to stay where we are for a while because we can leave the boat safely here in case Cathy has to fly home to help look after for her. We'll take each day as it comes in the meantime. Let's hope we can get going before the meltemi makes getting to the Dodecanese a long slog to windward.

Winter in Crete


Aghios Nikolaos 14th April

Hello again everyone! Yes, I know it's nearly Easter and this is the first time we've added to our blog in 2011.  We have some catching up to do, so I will try to summarise what we've been up to while we've been here in Crete.

If last season's cruising was all about places, this winter has been all about people -  making new friends, joining in social events and being a part of the small liveaboard community here in the marina which is predominantly made up of English with a few Swiss and German sailors.  We've also made friends with a few of the expat locals.

There's a communal BBQ every Sunday; a boules tournament on the beach every Wednesday; and walks often followed by raki and mezedes at the Two Brothers taverna on Thursdays.  Somehow we've fitted in twice weekly Greek conversation lessons with Stratos and all the usual boat maintenance as well.  Oh, and Cathy has published her book Paulina Annenkova on Amazon! 
Making friends on the pontoon
A taverna stop on one of our walks
Greek conversation lessons with Stratos

The Rainbow Choir concert
Leighton, Clare and Alois on Schironn B for the New Year's Eve party
Molly helps celebrate Leighton's 65th Birthday - New Year's Eve


We've not missed out on exploring the island either as we've had a third share in a hire car for most of the time we've been here. Crete is a beautiful island with magnificent scenery. It is mostly mountainous but lots of different wild flowers (anemones; orchids; ox-eye daisies; vetch; daphne; asphodel; sage and thyme to name a few) bloom all through the winter and into spring and bring colour to the landscape.  Winter in Crete is like early summer at home - lush green everywhere - with abundant harvests of olives; oranges; spinach-like horta; avocados; artichokes, etc. etc.

We are big fans of the legend of the Minotaur. This is from our visit to Knossos. 
Bull jumper fresco from Knossos
Bull Jumper fresco from Knossos
Palace at Knossos





























We've seen the olive pickers harvest their crop, walked up dramatic rocky gorges; followed Minoan trails several thousand years old across the hills; and hunted for fossils and shards of Minoan pottery (is that inscription Linear B, or does it say 'made in Taiwan'?). A highlight of the winter was a visit to Chania and learning about the Battle for Crete (which took place 70 years ago this May) in which Cathy's father played a significant part as a midshipman in HMS Kingston.  Here are some of the sights:
Indiana Jones tracks down that elusive Minoan clay tablet


Looking down towards the Libyan Sea

Do we have to climb up there?                                                                                                                                    








































The oldest olive tree in Crete - 3,000 years old

On top of the world - beat that!