Soundtrack: The sound of waves washing against the beach below Makarma’s perch high on the hard. From the cockpit there’s a fantastic view to the north up the Guadiana, and in the other direction – to the open sea.
High Point: Hot water! Four years after getting a calorifier at the Beaulieu boat jumble, the two engineers onboard have got it wired and plumbed in. Despite dire warnings about running out of water, we’re enjoying the luxury of it.
Low Point: Getting a black eye by banging my head on the gearbox – I think it was the gearbox anyway – while working in the black hole of the engine compartment. This is in the process of replacing the anode bolts which go through the hull. They are buried deep behind the engine out of reach of any normal human. Black sikaflex to seal the holes is smeared everywhere before a nut has to graunch down on each bolt. Leighton manages to tighten the first nut but seeing the effort it cost him, it’s obvious that the smallest person onboard is going to have to do the other one. Black eye, hands covered in sikaflex, and shoulders screaming with pain. Are we having fun yet?
We have a day’s delay getting lifted out of the water as the boatyard is overbooked. And they insist on getting us back in on the 27th, when we’d booked to stay until 6th May. We’re going to have to cram more work in the four days than we would normally do in ten. The minute the boat’s been parked and pressure washed, we get cracking with the antifouling. Another pair of hands is absolutely invaluable, and work progresses quickly. The trouble is, it is like having the builders in, except there’s nowhere to escape the disruption – floorboards up; tools everywhere; electrics off; wet paint on deck. Absolutely ghastly for as long as it lasts, and we’re forced to eat out one night as cooking is impossible. One night someone nicked our ladder, leaving us stranded onboard. For someone used to dropping out of helicopters, it’s no problem to shin down a rope to the ground and get it back, but it’s a nasty moment.
Sunday 19th April – farewell to Ayamonte
Soundtrack: The main halyard is gently slapping against the mast, and there’s a brief commotion ashore as a handful of kids drag their optimists up the slipway of the sailing school. Otherwise it’s absolutely quiet.
High Point: Getting under way at last – and the sun’s come out! A number of our neighbours assembled on the pontoon to pay us a fond farewell and to wish us good sailing. We shall miss the camaraderie of the other boats berthed here but it’s time to go. We certainly never expected to spend three winters in Ayamonte marina, but now finally we’re off! We’re just going along the coast a little way for a shakedown sail before returning to the river to lift out at Vila Real next week.
Low point: Torrential rain on Friday night, which produced some serious drips in inconvenient places down below. It brings home to us that the poor old boat needs quite a bit of tlc to bring her up to scratch. Whilst she’s been sitting here patiently waiting for us to decide to come and live aboard, she’s been going slowly downhill.
We’re sitting at anchor at Tavira in Portugal. We’ve had a cracking sail to get here this morning. A gentle drift downwind under the yankee to get out of the Guadiana river, followed by a boisterous beam reach in a northerly F5, bringing us to the sheltered lagoon between Tavira island and the mainland by lunchtime. Trip distance is 16 miles. Jason had a go at fishing with the shiny new lures without success – he’s now going to try his hand with the lobster pot.
A low-lying sandy island protects us from the sea. It appears uninhabited, although the dumpy little ferryboat is plying back and forth carrying plenty of passengers. A faded blue fishing boat lies abandoned in the scrub some distance above the bank beside us. From here we can see the white buildings and orange roofs of Tavira a mile or so inland with the torn paper outline of hills beyond. The town boasts a fine Roman bridge which we’ve crossed before on the way to Faro. A concrete pontoon, the lifeboat station and a couple of cafes complete the picture.
High Point: Getting under way at last – and the sun’s come out! A number of our neighbours assembled on the pontoon to pay us a fond farewell and to wish us good sailing. We shall miss the camaraderie of the other boats berthed here but it’s time to go. We certainly never expected to spend three winters in Ayamonte marina, but now finally we’re off! We’re just going along the coast a little way for a shakedown sail before returning to the river to lift out at Vila Real next week.
Low point: Torrential rain on Friday night, which produced some serious drips in inconvenient places down below. It brings home to us that the poor old boat needs quite a bit of tlc to bring her up to scratch. Whilst she’s been sitting here patiently waiting for us to decide to come and live aboard, she’s been going slowly downhill.
We’re sitting at anchor at Tavira in Portugal. We’ve had a cracking sail to get here this morning. A gentle drift downwind under the yankee to get out of the Guadiana river, followed by a boisterous beam reach in a northerly F5, bringing us to the sheltered lagoon between Tavira island and the mainland by lunchtime. Trip distance is 16 miles. Jason had a go at fishing with the shiny new lures without success – he’s now going to try his hand with the lobster pot.
A low-lying sandy island protects us from the sea. It appears uninhabited, although the dumpy little ferryboat is plying back and forth carrying plenty of passengers. A faded blue fishing boat lies abandoned in the scrub some distance above the bank beside us. From here we can see the white buildings and orange roofs of Tavira a mile or so inland with the torn paper outline of hills beyond. The town boasts a fine Roman bridge which we’ve crossed before on the way to Faro. A concrete pontoon, the lifeboat station and a couple of cafes complete the picture.
Thursday 16th April – farewell to Bovey
Soundtrack: I wake at 6am to the sound of a car alarm up the street. It is almost drowned out by the dawn chorus in full and glorious voice.
High Point: Finally getting rid of the car, which overheated 30 minutes after its new owner drove it away. We managed to persuade him to keep the car, but only by meeting the cost of the repairs to the radiator and water pump.
Low Point: saying goodbye to my parents, friends and neighbours. Casting off the ties that bind us to the shore is painful, making it hard to leave, despite the fact that we’re realising a long-held dream to go.
Leighton left on Monday for the boat, leaving me with two clear days to pack the last things and clean and shut up the house. There’s still a few jobs to do this morning before Jason and Kirsten come to take me to the airport. Jason is flying down with me to spend a few weeks aboard with us. He’s offered to help Leighton install the solar hot water, and we hope to give him some sailing as well. Better get on…..
High Point: Finally getting rid of the car, which overheated 30 minutes after its new owner drove it away. We managed to persuade him to keep the car, but only by meeting the cost of the repairs to the radiator and water pump.
Low Point: saying goodbye to my parents, friends and neighbours. Casting off the ties that bind us to the shore is painful, making it hard to leave, despite the fact that we’re realising a long-held dream to go.
Leighton left on Monday for the boat, leaving me with two clear days to pack the last things and clean and shut up the house. There’s still a few jobs to do this morning before Jason and Kirsten come to take me to the airport. Jason is flying down with me to spend a few weeks aboard with us. He’s offered to help Leighton install the solar hot water, and we hope to give him some sailing as well. Better get on…..
3rd April Bovey Tracey - 10 days to go
High Point: Finally getting our 30kg box of boat bits shipped to Ayamonte after packing and repacking it several times and numerous attempts to find a carrier.
Low Point: Lying awake last night thinking about everything still to do and worrying about what could go wrong.
Soundtrack: Outside, the pair of pigeons nesting in the tree in the drive are calling to each other; there's a distant buzz of a lawnmower.
The good thing about going away is that it's galvanised us into seeing more of our friends. Suzie and Craig (last seen 15 years ago!) came specially down from Westbury to visit us. Last weekend I went to London to say goodbye to Edd, staying overnight with Jane before going on to see Liz and Tom and their growing household in Surrey. This week it's been lunch with David and Elizabeth, and a visit to Dartmouth to see Chris and Jenny. Each in their own way has been a source of inspiration and encouragement to us, and knowing they wish us well will sustain us in the months ahead.
Today is a glorious spring day, the G20 protests in London have passed without a call from Edd to say he's been arrested, and its beginning to sink in that we really are embarking on a life-changing adventure. My feelings veer from trepidation to excitement. Roll on departure!
Low Point: Lying awake last night thinking about everything still to do and worrying about what could go wrong.
Soundtrack: Outside, the pair of pigeons nesting in the tree in the drive are calling to each other; there's a distant buzz of a lawnmower.
The good thing about going away is that it's galvanised us into seeing more of our friends. Suzie and Craig (last seen 15 years ago!) came specially down from Westbury to visit us. Last weekend I went to London to say goodbye to Edd, staying overnight with Jane before going on to see Liz and Tom and their growing household in Surrey. This week it's been lunch with David and Elizabeth, and a visit to Dartmouth to see Chris and Jenny. Each in their own way has been a source of inspiration and encouragement to us, and knowing they wish us well will sustain us in the months ahead.
Today is a glorious spring day, the G20 protests in London have passed without a call from Edd to say he's been arrested, and its beginning to sink in that we really are embarking on a life-changing adventure. My feelings veer from trepidation to excitement. Roll on departure!
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