Last night found us standing outside the Greek Orthodox church in Vonitsa carrying candles which we lit inside the church a moment before. The black robed priest has come outside to address the crowd through loudspeakers. Everyone is dressed in their finest clothes for the occasion. When the clock chimes midnight, the priest cries ‘Christos Anesti!’ and a roar goes up as everyone replies, ‘Christ is risen indeed!’ The bells ring out and fireworks explode into the sky. Thunderflashes go off under our feet. It is absolutely deafening. Later our candle makes it safely back to the boat still lit to bring us good luck for the coming year. Lighted candles can be seen flickering inside cars as people drive home.
Orthodox Easter is Greece’s big holiday. In the run-up to today, rows of lamb carcases have been hanging in the butcher’s, and the candles that bring good luck are for sale everywhere – many of them elaborately decorated with Barbie dolls, footballers and coloured charms. Vonitsa has filled up with local holidaymakers. Today family and friends get together to eat roast lamb and kokoretsi, a long sausage made of the animal’s entrails and innards, which is cooked over a charcoal brazier in the garden or out on the street. Everyone exchanges ‘Kalo Paskha!’ greetings and red eggs. We enjoy a huge lamb lunch in a taverna overlooking the bay before staggering back home to sleep it off.
After our launch, we sailed the 7 miles to Vonitsa from Aktio on a gloriously sunny day. Mo Fay-Jenkins, who’s sailed single handed across the Atlantic came along for the ride.
We are tied up on the quay alongside Frank and Anneke’s Victory 40, Panteleimon. Vonitsa harbour is sheltered and the little agricultural town is delightful. We are getting to know our way around well. One day we joined Mo and her husband Paul on their junk rigged Fay40, Ti-Gitu for a sail around the gulf.
On another day a brisk afternoon breeze gave us a fantastic sail in Pantaleimon.
Spring is truly here in the Ionian. The fields are a vibrant green and dotted with colourful wildflowers. The almond, cherry and apple trees are in blossom, the trees are now in leaf and the house martins are nesting under the eaves in town. The orange and lemon trees are laden with fruit. Fresh local strawberries are starting to appear in the shops. The bad news is the weather has warmed up enough now for us to tackle the daunting job of recaulking the deck.
Anneke valiantly trying the kokoretsi (lamb's entrail sausage) grilling on Easter Sunday - verdict - thumbs down!
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