Paradise Found?

 Paradise Bay, Hisaronu gulf, Turkey - 28th August

As Greece has been our home for almost two years, we were finding the prospect of leaving the country a bit of a wrench.  When it came to it, Symi made it easy for us. Everyone raves about Symi, but we found the island a complete disappointment. After a dull 30 mile motorsail from Nisyros, we anchored in Panormitis on the southwest corner of Symi. We met the high season crowds and our first flotilla of the season. A monastery stands on the shore with a large hotel wing that looks like it was designed for Soviet-era workers' holidays. Although the anchorage is almost entirely sheltered from the sea, a slight swell rolled in, making for an uncomfortable night.

We decided to move on the next morning to Pethi, just south of Symi town.  Don't bother to go there, the holding's dreadful and boats often drag their anchor.  As we weren't happy we were properly hooked, we tied up to the quay used by the Rhodes water boat so we could leave the boat to take the bus to Symi town.  There we found a heaving mass of day-trippers and souvenir shops.  We stayed just long enough to cancel our Cosmote broadband account, pick up bacon, beer and wine and check out.

Crossing the border

Eight miles across from Symi and we arrive in Turkey. Bozburun is situated at the head of an attractive gulf littered with islands and bays. Approaching the harbour the first thing you see is the silver dome of the town's mosque.  Gulets are tied up in the harbour, we find loads of fruit and vegetable stalls and a hyper-clean toilet/shower block.

Tied up in Bozburun harbour

Two hours after we arrive, our entry formalities are all complete - thanks to a shipping agent who sports a paunch and a pony-tail, and gets about on a tricycle.

We are in the Hisaronu gulf.  Our first reaction to sailing here is if it's all like this, we won't ever leave. Crystal clear water, no swell, a gentle afternoon breeze and calm overnight anchorages.  What a pleasant change from the Dodecanese!

Taking it easy

Just when we're thinking it's too good to be true, an unwelcome reality intrudes. We've noticed that water has started to creep into the bilge and go to investigate. A hot and bad tempered morning later, Leighton sources the leak to the holding tank (oh joy!) and fixes it. He'd just fitted a new diverter valve (our second from the UK as the first turned out to be the wrong size), but this one is faulty and was letting water flow unimpeded into the tank even when it's closed.  This made the tank overflow - with seawater I hasten to say, not the contents of the loo.  Turkish environmental regulations are very strict, so we had to be very discreet about pumping the bilge out in the harbour. A hefty fine on our first full day in Turkey would not have been a good start. The bad news is we can't use the holding tank for now, but the good news is the bilge is now bone dry again.

Yesterday we put the whole episode behind us with a leisurely lunch on a mooring buoy off Bozburun followed by a glorious sail closehauled to Dirsek where we tied to a restaurant quay and feasted on all-you-can-eat meze for supper. 

Shoreside restaurant in Dirsek

Today we're anchored in Paradise bay tied back to the rocks on shore, watching the kids on a neighbouring gullet try to windsurf. The hills are green with woody shrubs and pines. It's back to home cooking tonight.