The best way to visit ancient Knidos is by boat. We’ve come here from Datcha where we only stayed long enough to pick up supplies. Because of works on the south side of the town’s harbour, it was like being anchored in a building site.
We spend two days moored on the pontoon in Knidos so we could explore the impressive ruins. Our berth gave us a grandstand view of the old theatre. The city was established in the 6th century BC on terraces that slope down to a promontory dominated by the imposing Cape Krio. The two parts of the ancient site are linked by a low isthmus which also serves to divide its two harbours.
The smaller trireme harbour faces west and is still used by local fishing boats. The other larger harbour faces east and its ancient breakwaters, some parts of which are now underwater, still protect the entrance. Indeed on our way in we strayed rather too close for comfort to the end of the left hand sea wall.
The city grew rich through maritime trading, playing a major role in the region for many centuries. By 4th century BC, the Knidians had built an ostentatious treasury for themselves at Delphi. The city was renowned for two things - its statue of Aphrodite - now missing - and the astronomer Eudoxus. The city’s statue of Aphrodite was the first ever marble sculpture of a naked woman. Created by Praxiteles, it was dedicated to seafarers and drew in admirers in their droves. Eudoxus was a Greek mathematician and astronomer who built an observatory at Knidos to map the stars. Was this his sundial, we wonder?
Now the city is populated by large lizards and yellow speckled dragonflies. Poppies and wild barley grow up between the stones and the sound of larks drifts in the wind.
We wander around the ruins foraging for old shards, trying to imagine how it used to be. On our second morning we walked up to the lighthouse that now stands on Cape Krio through swathes of wild flowers. From there we had a stunning view of the Greek islands of Nisyros, Symi and Kos.
During our stay Leighton used his underwater video camera for the first time to take shots of some fish under the pier. Later he managed to scrub off much of the weed on the hull. That should make us go a little faster. Only one thing marred an otherwise wonderful visit. A live band playing at the waterside restaurant stopped us from sleeping our last evening until at 1am Cathy politely went over and asked them when they intended to pack it in.
We spend two days moored on the pontoon in Knidos so we could explore the impressive ruins. Our berth gave us a grandstand view of the old theatre. The city was established in the 6th century BC on terraces that slope down to a promontory dominated by the imposing Cape Krio. The two parts of the ancient site are linked by a low isthmus which also serves to divide its two harbours.
The smaller trireme harbour faces west and is still used by local fishing boats. The other larger harbour faces east and its ancient breakwaters, some parts of which are now underwater, still protect the entrance. Indeed on our way in we strayed rather too close for comfort to the end of the left hand sea wall.
The city grew rich through maritime trading, playing a major role in the region for many centuries. By 4th century BC, the Knidians had built an ostentatious treasury for themselves at Delphi. The city was renowned for two things - its statue of Aphrodite - now missing - and the astronomer Eudoxus. The city’s statue of Aphrodite was the first ever marble sculpture of a naked woman. Created by Praxiteles, it was dedicated to seafarers and drew in admirers in their droves. Eudoxus was a Greek mathematician and astronomer who built an observatory at Knidos to map the stars. Was this his sundial, we wonder?
Now the city is populated by large lizards and yellow speckled dragonflies. Poppies and wild barley grow up between the stones and the sound of larks drifts in the wind.
We wander around the ruins foraging for old shards, trying to imagine how it used to be. On our second morning we walked up to the lighthouse that now stands on Cape Krio through swathes of wild flowers. From there we had a stunning view of the Greek islands of Nisyros, Symi and Kos.
During our stay Leighton used his underwater video camera for the first time to take shots of some fish under the pier. Later he managed to scrub off much of the weed on the hull. That should make us go a little faster. Only one thing marred an otherwise wonderful visit. A live band playing at the waterside restaurant stopped us from sleeping our last evening until at 1am Cathy politely went over and asked them when they intended to pack it in.
No comments:
Post a Comment